Last Night in Europe

Tonight: dinner overlooking the Eiffel Tower and a full moon.
Tomorrow: back to the real world.

Party's over.

Last day in Paris

Sitting in front of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Chris studies the guidebook
and explains the significance behind each sculpture on the facade.

Madrid After-Party

After a long 8 hour train and bus ride from Santiago de Compostela to
Madrid we arrive to the lovely Hotel Adler to meet up with Chris'
parents. We have a day and 1/2 in Madrid so naturally we take a walk
through Retiro Park, criticize some art at the Prado & the Thyssen
Museums. While Karen and Bill took a nap, Chris and I visited the
señora that I lived with when I studied abroad in 2007.

Pictured in front of La Puerta de Alcala. (left to right: Karen, Bill
& Chris)

Fisterra aka The End of the Earth

This tip of Spain was dubbed Finis Terrae (the end of earth) by the
Romans who believed the sun was engulfed each night by the sea.

Up until the days of Christopher Colombus this was the westernmost tip
of the world. And since the world was flat, it was thought that you
would fall off the earth if you ventured out too far into the sunset.

This sculpture of a hiking boot on the tip of the world pays homage to
the pilgrims who have finished their journey. It's tradition to burn
your clothes next to this sculpture then dive in the ocean to clean
yourself (I guess all the old-school pilgrims walked home in their
birthday suits).

We're There!

After 32 days of pain we finally reach the cathedral. I've never been
happier to see anything in my life. Just in time for pilgrim mass with
thousands of touristas and no seats for pilgrims...aweful. But they
did mention that the only two people who walked from France to mass
this morning were from the USA.

Monte do Gozo - 5 km left

According to old traditions, pilgrims and/or merchants would race to
the top of the hill where this sculpture sits to see who could spy the
spires of Santiago's cathedral. The first to spot them yells, "Mon
Joie" and is declared king. Although Chris is a great poser, I am
actually king!

Day 32: Into The Promise Land

We caught wind that the herd of middle-schoolers was leaving the
albergue at 7:00, so we decided to leave at 6:00. Armed with one head
light each we took to the streets and at 6:05 found ourselves in the
middle of a massive forrest. By the time we poked our heads out the
other side, the sun had started to as well. We have 15 km left and a
pilgrim mass at noon. Plenty of time...

Day 31: Galician Pulpo

Yesterday we passed through the small town of Melide and stopped for
an early lunch of "the best pulpo on the camino". A restaurant named
Ezequiel has 2 large caldrons brewing at all times and every 5-10
minutes a little old lady will reach in with her bare hands, pull a
fully intact squid from the boiling water, and put a pair of scissors
to the test. Before you know it there's a delightfully oily wooden
plate before you with a pile of pulpo and topped with sweet pepper
powder. Chris tried his first tentacles and admits that he prefers
them to the rest of the squid.

Chris, way to be true to your school...

Day 30: River Dance

We ended up at another albergue that resembles a hippie commune (just
as many cows as people walking around the grounds). After yesterday's
showers, the first day of spring brought sunshine, and after a long,
hot, humid walk people from three different continents decided to test
the river. Still a tid bit nipply.

Day 29: The Flood

After jockeying for position all day in a torrential downpour with
everyone but the kitchen sink, we found ourselves at our scheduled
destination (Palas del Rey) with no available beds. We swam three
kilometers downstream and somehow ended up in a cozy albergue in a
tiny town (pop. 12) by ourselves with more good food and wine than we
could handle. We're now 45 min ahead of the 80 middle school students
that got dumped infront of us yesterday afternoon...que suerte.

Day 27: The Home Stretch

We passed the 700 Km mark today which means we only have 100 left to
go. With every step closer to Santiago there are a hundred more pseudo-
pilgrims. These rookies will get the same certificate of completion we
will, but will still have pearly white kicks when they approach the
pearly white gates. They take buses, cabs, and whatever else they can
commondeer from town to town taking every last unearned drop of hot
water and bottom bunk. The peaceful waltz through the park we once
knew is no more...

That being said, Galicia is a drastic change from Castilla y Leon.
Where highways and paved paths were once the norm, lush green fields
and flowing streams have taken their place. We may be in a traffic jam
but I can't think of a better place to have to slow down.

Day 25: St Paddy's Day

Let me start by saying nobody here knows who St. Patrick is. We ended
our stroll trough Bierzo Valley with a 30 km pub crawl straigh up a
mountain to pay homage to this unrecognized saint. Near the top we
passed from Castilla y Leon into Galicia, the last region of our
journey, where the people speak a language that vaguely resembles a
retarted cousin of Spanish (i.e. We are now walking the Xacobian route).

Day 24: Bierzo Valley Cont'd

After hitting the highest point of the camino yeasterday (1550m),
we've been trekking through low wine country today. Leaving Ponferrada
(550m) this morning, we walked 25 km to Villafranca del Bierzo for a
late lunch of patatas bravas and pulpo on a balcony overlooking rio
Burbia. 6.5 km to Pereje where we crash tonight.

Day 23 cont'd: Bierzo Valley

We're a few kilometers from Ponferrada but we've decided to rest our
feet for a few minutes and give the Bierzo Valley wine a try. This
valley is know for the mansilla grapes they grow and it's the only
grape that goes into the making of their earthy, smooth and delicious
wine.

Day 23: Climb Every Mountain

We slept at one of my favorite alburgues last night in Foncebadon.
When we arrived there were gypsies sitting in a circle singing. I
later learned that they live a few km down the road and come sing
every Sunday night with their tamborines, guitars, hand drums (which
Chris immediately started playing), recorders and maracas. They cooked
us a feast of seafood paella and this morning Chris and I attended the
morning yoga class in their attic.

After a few km of walking we came across this monument: La Cruz de
Ferro. This massive conical pile of stones marks the pass over Monte
Irago and the border between La Maragateria and El Bierzo Valley.
Across Europe, Celts traditionally laid stones at peaks and passes
like this one to calm the mountain gods and ask for safe passage
through the mountains. Romans in the area continued the tradition,
calling the stones "murias" after Mercury, their god of travellers.
Adding a stone to the pile is an important Camino ritual; many
pilgrims bring stones from home to place here.

Day 22: Electric Avenue

Being the fearless pilgrim that I am, I had to try. The irresistable
urge to tip a Spanish cow got the best of me; and believe me, this
jimmy-rigged piece of junk is no joke...

Cow: 1, Me: 0

Day 21: Another Day in Paradise

The five-star facilities at our brunch cafe just outside of Leon.
Without another establishment for miles, it was either here or a field
with no trees...at least this place had foot rests.

After a nice two night layover in Leon it was back to the march. With
a civilized departure time of 10:00am and a flat 23km trek, we ended
up in Villar de Mazarife feelin' good. Seafood paella for dinner
tonight in the albergue.

Day 19: Leon

We walked extra yesterday so we would only have 12km into the city
today. We both feel good and have explored most of the bars already,
tapas in Barrio Humido tonight, and oh ya there's a cathedral too
(really cool - my favorite of the camino so far).

Day 18: Almost to Leon

Chris and I are eager to arrive in Leon. We walked extra kilometers
again today so that tomorrow we only have have 12 km to reach the big
city and start exploring. Chris' friend, T-Mac, is meeting us in Leon
and we plan on hitting up Barrio Humido and the museum of modern art
as well as the cathedral.

Day 18: Chris' New Favorite Meal

Spanish version of pound cake dipped in his cafe con leche.

Spanish Guess Who

From left to right: Hans, Ahmed, Theo, Jane

This classic game has been given a few modern upgrades...you can now
ask, "Will he/she make it through airport security?"

Day 16: Half Way

As we arrived in Terradillos de Templarios this evening we hit the 400
km mark, which is also the half-way point from St. Jean Pied de Port
to Santiago de Compostela.

Circled on the far right is where we started in France and the other
circle is where we are now... half way to the Atlantic Ocean.

Day 16: 'But I Thought Hurricane Season Was Over'

Just when we thought winter was coming to an end, we step outside into
another snowy day.
Today has been very frustrating. A commercial tour bus dropped off 50
well-macicured, clean shaven, made-up "pilgrims" with sparkling white
tennis shoes to walk a 10 km stretch. They speed past us since the bus
is carrying their luggage and beat us to the only bar in the next
village. We arrive with no where to sit but a toilet without a seat
(which we both immediately used). They proceed to eat (what they
believe to be) their well-deserved lunch while their heated tour bus
is parked outside waiting for them...rookies.

Photographed left to right: Pablo (24- from Madrid), Chris (23- from
Houston), Inagi (51- from Bilbao).

Day 15: Pub Crawl

After walking the furthest I ever have in one day two days ago (31km),
then breaking that record yesterday (36km), we decided to take it easy
today. Setting a goal of 20 km, with five towns inbetween beds, it's
an easy decision.

Day 14: Used and Abused

Day 14 is our longest day yet-35 kilometers (21 miles). We felt weak
and sick by the end of the day. Managed to take a cold shower, found
some soup in a restaurant and fell asleep before we posted this picture.

Day 13: 300 km Conquered

We left Burgos this morning with optimism and pain killers. Planning
ahead, Chris and I decided we want to spend 2 nights in Leon (8 days
away) so we are beginning to make up ground now. An extra 5-10 km per
day, on days that the weather permits, should keep us on schedule. The
32 km (19.9 miles) we walked today puts us at 317 km (196.5 miles)
total.

The edge of this meseta overlooks the town of Hornillos del Camino
where we had lunch today...out in the cold because Manolo, the owner
of Bar Manolo (the only establishment in that fine town) is on
vacation until April.

Her Next Craving

A warm Belgian waffle covered in nutella, powdered sugar, and
chocolate chunks with a mammoth scoop of Arabian coffee ice cream...to
clear the pallet after a bloody feast.

If you're ever in Burgos look this place up - best desserts ever...

Belgious
Calle de San Juan, 19
09006 Burgos
Tel: 94 727 0082
www.belgious.com

More Burgos

Burgos is by far the biggest city we've been in so far. It took us
about two hours of optimistically turning corners to finally reach our
albergue. People were looking at us like leppars walking the streets
with our massive packs, sticks, and beard.

Wierd town this Burgos - it's a mix between urban sprawl/no zoning/
tejano-town Houston and medieval Europe (gorgeous cathedral and cobble
stone streets in city center). After cleaning up a bit we found time
to mingle with the locals...

Day 12: Burgos

Apparently somebody knew I was coming and what state I would be
in...This mural is about 15 ft tall on the side of a house.

Adiós La Rioja, Bienvenidos Castilla y Leon

To commemorate this monumentous occasion, Princess Mal decided to glam-rock her Def Leppard/Ratt/Motley Crue groupie giddey-up...and grace us with a scissor kick.

Day 11: Sampling the Local Cuisine

Not only is this seemingly innocent, once pescaterian, blondie artista
now a carnivorous pilgrim (note the chorrizo in the tortilla
española). But she has moved on to bigger and better things that will
satisfy her bloodthirsty cravings. The black thing on top of that
tower-of-power is a type of sausage unique to Burgos. It looks like
beef to the untrained eye, but is actually dried pigs blood mixed with
rice...breakfast of champions.

I know she's cute but don't let her fool you. Nobody knows what
craving she might have next...

Day 10: Who Is John Gault?

I can't believe it took us 237.2 km to finally take action and lighten
our packs. Chris and I each shipped 3 km worth of junk to Santigo this
morning that we will be awaiting our arrival on March 23rd.

It also took us 237.2 km to finish our first audio book-Atlas Shrugged.

Ps. My feet felt rejuvinated this morning (see day 9).